Sniffing the 2005 Riesling Heimbourg de Turckheim from Domaine Zind-Humbrecht triggers a vivid picture of water drying off a large rock in the afternoon sun: the warm smell of moist stone dominates the aroma of this Riesling from Alsace. The soil of the Heimbourg vineyard consists of mainly of clay-limestone. On the small, southern part of the Heimbourg vineyard Zind-Humbrecht planted Riesling vines sixteen years ago.
After the smell of moist stone dissipates ripe peach and quince fruit slowly emerge. The Heimbourg is dry on the palate, but has a very soft mouthfeel. The acidity is high and the alcohol noticeable but well integrated. Both the vibrant acidity and sturdy alcohol push the pile of stones over the mid-palate, which eventually gives way to ripe apple, herbs and a distinct spiciness and a touch of smoke over a long length.
I have arrived.
Peach, herbs, spice and smoke is a combination that may sound more like Arnold Schoenberg than Mozart, yet Zind-Humbrecht's Heimbourg 2005 combines all of this in such a playful, harmonious and tasteful way that it reminds me why I love wine. No other liquid has so many nuances. But at the same time, the Heimbourg is a muscular and concentrated Riesling that would be a fine companion even for a roast dish. In fact, it is probably more apt for a roast than any heavily oaked red wine. The Heimbourg's sturdiness can stand up to the roast and accentuate the dish's flavor with this Riesling's minerality.
The 2005 Heimbourg is a real pleasure to drink now, but I may have opened it a decade too soon.