Riesling

Continental climates like those in Germany, Alsace or Austria have those moderately warm summer days. Equally important are the long hours of daylight these countries provide due to their northerly location (Germany in particular). In warmer wine regions like Claire Valley or Frankland River in Australia Riesling thrives only on elevated, cooler vineyard sites.

In America Riesling is also grown in California, but better known are Rieslings from cooler regions such as Oregon, Washington and particularly New York's Finger Lakes, where it became the most successful vinifera grape variety.

Riesling is multifaceted. Its wines can be bone dry or unctuously sweet - and every nuance in between. Its versatility, however, has put Riesling not always at an advantage as it is often not clear to the consumer how sweet a particular wine is, unless it is specifically stated on the label as dry or trocken. The rule of thumb that the higher the alcohol level the drier the wine can only approximate the actual sweetness of a wine. One possible solution is the International Riesling Foundation's Riesling Taste Profile, which visually indicates the sweetness level to the consumer.

Probably the most fascinating characteristic of Riesling is its ability to ingest the particularities of the place where it is grown. Compare Riesling from Germany, Alsace, Austria or Australia and they are all unmistakably Riesling. Yet, at the same time, they are also unmistakably German, Alsatian, Austrian or Australian. No other grape variety can speak so markedly of the soils it is growing in without giving up its own distinct varietal character.

Another quality that sets Riesling apart is its longevity. Riesling ages well primarily because of its high acidity levels, high extract levels (the non-volatile solids) and, in the case of sweet wines, the residual sugar. Aging means transformation as maturation alters the wines flavor, texture and appearance. Contrary to common belief white wines ages just as well as red wines and sometimes even better. Unfortunately, maturation is one of the wonders of wine that is losing appreciation amongst consumers.

Riesling wines are generally low in alcohol and devoid of any oak, both of which made it rather unfashionable in recent years when wines became stronger with each vintage and the oak barrel became more important than the wine it contained. No fashion lasts forever, though.

Jancis Robinson said that "Riesling is indisputably the greatest white wine grape in the world". I agree wholeheartedly.