Albert Mann 2002 Riesling Schlossberg Grand Cru

Albert Mann's 2002 Riesling Schlossberg Grand Cru demonstrates quite beautifully why Alsatian Rieslings rank amongst the finest in the world. It starts with its appearance of a brilliant golden color. How is it possible, I ask myself, to create a liquid so clear and vibrant?

The Schlossberg vineyard consists of granit soils which seem to have given the wine its character. The nose is developed and has a pronounced intensity of minerals along with grapefruit, peach and florals. There is also a hint of kerosene, quite an intriguing contrast to the mineral freshness of this Riesling. It is dry on the palate, but with a touch of sweetness. I know, we are constantly being told that Alsatian Riesling is always dry as opposed to German Riesling, but that is simply not true (just think of selection de grains nobles). The Schlossberg has a hint of residual sugar and there is no reason to be ashamed of that. It actually lifts this Riesling from mere complexity up to complexity with harmony.

The high acidity balances the alcohol level, which gives the wine a noticeable weight: this Riesling is not light and delicate but has offeres pronounced flavors of ripe peach, woodruff and minerals. An elegant touch of bitterness hangs on during a long length like the last petal of a fading flower.

We drank this wonderful Riesling along with a roasted beets and goat cheese tart from Red Barn Bakery and I couldn't think of a better match, not in a million years. The slightly sweet yellow and red beets and the goat cheese that had been sprinkled with hot spices were begging for a wine with high acidity and a touch or residual sugar.

Albert Mann's Grand Cru wines have a different label than the regular AOC wines. They show an abstract painting saturated with earthy reds and browns.