Lauer 2008 Ayler Kupp Riesling "Unterstenbersch" Fass 12

Lauer 2008 Ayler Kupp Riesling "Unterstenbersch" Fass 12
Producer: 
Peter Lauer
Region: 
Mosel
Country: 
Germany
Alcohol: 
11.5 %
RS: 
9.0 g/l
Acidity: 
8.0 g/l
Closure: 
Cork
Size: 
750 ml
Price: 
$35
Tasted: 
20 August 2010

"Unterstenbersch" means at the bottom of the mountain in the local dialect of the Saar valley and this is significant information. The soil at the bottom of the Ayler Kupp has finer slate content as the stones at the top crumble and slate dust is being carried down over time. The old vines on those parcels of the Ayler Kupp seem to absorb all this minerality - the 2008 Ayler Kupp Riesling "Unterstenbersch" Fass 12 has a distinct mineral character.

It has a medium lemon color, nothing unusual about that. But then rises a pronounced intensity of mineral aromatics that is almost breathtaking. Between all those stones I can smell ripe peach and wet straw. The aroma is so minerally concentrated it almost has weight. The Unterstenbersch Riesling is off-dry, although the acidity is so crisp that the residual sugar creates more of a soft mouthfeel than actual sweetness. Impressive balance of residual sugar and acidity!

The flavor: it really tastes of stones. The sixty year old vines on this part of the Ayler Kupp are taking in all of that weathered fine slate. Ripe stone fruit with a touch of bay leaf is there, too. The stones carry through a relatively long length.

This is a very fine Riesling! The interplay between acidity and this touch of sweetness is so elegant and exciting that I am tempted to declare all dry-fermented wines heresy.

Photo of the vineyard: http://www.moselwineblog.com/?p=5662

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