Poured in the glass the Andlau 2001 from Domaine Marc Kreydenweiss shows a beautiful golden color. A sign of its age. At eight years the Andlau is not a veteran, but it's not a Kastelberg, it's not a Grand Cru - nobody expects it to last for twenty or more years. Yet its brillance still holds a promise.
Aromas of blackberry stand out, with keen minerality and a freshness that makes me feel like I am walking right through the brambles. The stones I can smell in the Andlau smell warm. Coated with honey, sprinkled with spices. At the end a peach flower with withered leaves.
It turns out that the freshness on the nose is an echo of the palate's crisp acidity. Not surprisingly for a 2001 Alsatian Riesling it is the acidity that stands out. It is brisk and exhilarating. Acidity is not supposed to please. Its purpose is to keep us alert and observant. Boring wines don't have good acidity. Dull company is rarely exhilarating. The Andlau is dry, very dry. It is not a big wine, the alcohol level is moderate, well integrated with the flavors of herbs and honey. The finish is spicy. The fruit is fading and despite the still crisp acidity I think the 2001 Andlau should be drunk within the next two years.
The abstract label art with its sunny yellows and earthy browns was created by Alsatian artist Marie-Jo Daloz.
Update 21 January 2011: Although the wine still has an intriguing aroma of spices and honey it starts to tire on the palate, losing its liveliness. The taste of honey is still there, but the length of the 2001 Andlau is as short as an old man's breath.