Hermanos del Villar 2009 Oro de Castilla Verdejo

A feisty and vivacious white wine is not the first thing that comes to my Riesling-sodden mind when thinking of Spain. But the Oro de Castilla, a wine made from 100% Verdejo by Hermanos del Villar, is exactly that: an intensely refreshing white wine from an almost forgotten grape variety that is native to the Rueda region in Spain's north-west.

The grapes for the Oro de Castilla were grown in gravel and sand, providing both good drainage and excellent heat retention, which is needed in Rueda's continental climate with its cool nights. The vineyards lie at high altitudes of 2359 feet (719 meters).

The 2009 Verdejo has a medium intensity of lime, yellow apple and white pepper aromas. It is dry on the palate and has a crisp and invigorating acidity. The alcohol is stated as 12.5% on the label, but the wine feels stronger than that. The palate is distinctly bitter and I mean this absolutely positively. Bitterness is exciting when it adds more than just a nuance but takes on responsibility. It drives this wine, it supports the apple flavors and the lime zest. And it lingers. The length is surprising since there is no oak in this stainless steel fermented wine - it is clear and precise, yet it lingers for a long time. Needless to say that there has not been any malolactic fermentation.

I am not very familiar with Verdejo and I don't know if it ages well, but I would drink this wine within the next two years. A great find and a must for the connoisseur of bitterness.

Producer website: orodecastilla.com
US importer: Olé Imports (Hermanos del Villar info on page 94 of their catalog).