Dönnhoff 2006 Felsentürmchen Riesling
The air smells moist. I make my way through the brambles on this misty day. A faint, soothing smell of wet branches and stones. I pick some blackberries. They taste sour and my cheeks pucker. I laugh out loud. But then a sweetness fills my mouth and I sit down and lick sticky traces of blackberry juice from my fingers.
Felsentürmchen means "little tower on the rock" and refers to an odd little tower that amongst old and gnarly vines fearlessly holds on to the steep slope of the Felsenberg. The soil consist of weathered volcanic porphyry soil. According to the estate's website the "Felsentürmchen" is the part of the Felsenberg vineyard where grapes with a particular mineral expression ripen and the minerality expresses itself in this wine's intense earthy character. But it is equally strong on the fruit side with its fresh and sweet blackberry taste that carries through a long length. Dönnhoff's 2006 Felsentürmchen Riesling is a shy giant, a Riesling with a calm surface but immense depth and length. Drink now through 2020.
In short:
Excellent
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