Channing Daughters Over and Over Variation Four tasting note

Region:

New York

Country:

USA

Alcohol:

13.0 %

Closure:

Cork

Size:

750 ml

Price:

$35

Production:

188 cases

Tasted:

08 March 2011

The making of "Over & Over" is not so simple to understand, especially if half of the bottle has already been consumed. Therefore I shall simply quote Channing Daughter's website:

"It all began with four barriques of 2004 Merlot that was taken out of barrel and re-passed over the fresh 2006 Merlot and Dornfelder fruit. The wine underwent another primary fermentation and was racked to barriques, hogsheads and puncheons where it underwent another malo-lactic fermentation. Half of the wine was taken and bottled after ten months in oak, and this was Variation One. The other half remained in barrel until the next harvest where it was re-passed over the 2007 Merlot, Syrah and Dornfelder fruit. It was all repeated and we bottled half as Variation Two."

In front of me is Variation Four. The wine itself is non-vintage because previous vintages are being refermented year after year. It's a bit like the Solera system used for sherry.

Variation Four smells like dirty Gamay, but the earthy aspect is most likely coming from the Syrah part of the wine. I think of eating cherries in an old barnyard. Happiness with every sip. The Over and Over is dry on the palate with medium(+) acidity. Both alcohol and body are also medium and make for a very pleasant summer wine and perfect companion for grilled meat. Medium intensity of black cherry, plum and black pepper. Medium long length with a surprisingly floral finish.

An unusual wine. It smells and tastes delightfully dirty but at the same time seems endlessly elegant. What am I to make of this? Should I bemoan elegance dressed in rags or enthusiastically embrace the audacity of ethanol et al.? I opt for the latter.

In short:

Very good