Binner 2007 Riesling Ammerschwihr

Binner 2007 Riesling Ammerschwihr
Region: 
Alsace
Country: 
France
Cultivation: 
Biodynamic
Alcohol: 
14.0 %
Closure: 
Cork
Size: 
750 ml
Price: 
$15
Tasted: 
14 January 2011

Medium straw color and - not surprisingly for a biodynamic wine - cloudy. Rather unusual nose for a Riesling. Very earthy, none of the brilliant fruit and pierce minerality. The Ammerschwihr Riesling from Binner has more of a moss-like aroma, wet and fresh, very interesting. It is completely dry on the palate and the acidity is so crisp that it tastes borderline sour. I mean this as a compliment.

For one thing, this light sourness provides refreshment that is needed for a wine of 14% alcohol. There are many wines of this alcoholic strength that lack freshness. Binner's $15 Riesling has both. But this hint of sourness (which really is just a hint) also tells me that the winemaker did not try to give that Riesling a facelift in the cellar.

The 2007 Ammerschwihr Riesling is not a starlet. And I thank Binner for that. The flavor profile may be simple - citrus fruit with a generous dash of pepper and elderflower - but this Riesling's charme is exactly that natural unpretentiousness of being a bit rough and yet full of character. Drink through 2015.

In short: 
Good - Very good

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